Purchasing diamonds and diamond jewelry

Tips to help you make a better purchase:

• When purchasing a diamond, consider purchasing the stone unmounted. This will enable you to examine the clarity and color without the limitations imposed by the setting. Evaluate the proportions by comparing it with other diamonds. Compare the amount of fire (break up of spectral colors) and brilliance (return of white light). It also helps to be able to examine the diamond's proportions using a proportion scope.
  
• If the diamond is one carat or larger and of SI2 or better clarity and/or better color, strongly consider looking only at diamonds with an independent certification such as a GIA or AGS certificate.
  
• Compare clarity grades using a microscope. You will be surprised how quickly you will be able to differentiate and compare one diamond to another and gauge the clarity grading scale. Proper equipment at the store is a must.
  
• Compare the price of one diamond versus another based on price per carat. You get this by taking the price of the diamond and dividing it by the weight of the diamond. Don't be fooled by claims of "Huge Discounts". By comparing price you may find that a regular price at some stores is the same or less than one offering "Big Discounts".
  
• Make sure the Clarity, Color and Proportions of the diamond are documented in writing. Also check that the store has a return policy and a Graduate Gemologist on staff.
  
• See section on "Selecting a Quality Jeweler" below.
  

Judging quality

Jewelry construction:

When purchasing a piece of jewelry, look carefully at the construction and quality of workmanship. The way the piece is designed, constructed and finished will have a major impact on how well the piece wears and holds up over time.

The major types of construction include:

• Cast - Pieces are cast by using a centrifugal force or vacuum into a plaster of paris type mold. Castings can be porous and tend to be less durable then die-struck or hand made pieces.
  
• Die-struck - Mountings formed through parts that are mechanically punched out of compressed sheet metal with dies (forms or molds).
  
• Hand-fabricated - Settings made by sawing, filing, and shaping the components by hand and then soldering them together.

Tips in judging quality:

• Look under magnification to see if the stones have been matched within size, color and clarity. Also look to see if they have been set straight (parallel in the setting) and that they are evenly spaced apart.
  
• Are the prongs or bezels that are securing the stones even in size and substantial?
  
• Look under magnification at the setting on the top and underside. Large bumps or pits and poor solder joints are indications of a poor quality setting.
  
• Also look at the symmetry of the setting and the quality of the finish of the gold or platinum.
  
• Look to see that the setting has a karat stamp and trademark stamp on it somewhere.
  

Selecting a quality jeweler

When selecting a quality jeweler, consider the following:

Find out about their reputation

• Were other customers satisfied with the service, quality and expertise?
  
• If they were unhappy with an item, did the jeweler work with them to meet their satisfaction?

Ask about the store credentials

• Level of gemological education attained or being pursued (i.e. GIA Graduate Gemologist of Fellow of Gemological Association)
  
• Is the store a member of a consumer protection group such as the American Gem Society? If they are appraisers, are they accredited by one of the appraisal societies?
  
• How long has the store been in business?
  
• What is the level of service that the store offers (jewelry and watch repair, appraisals, engraving, etc.)?
  
• Consider the level of professionalism and knowledge of the employees?
  
• Write the Better Business Bureau, American Gem Society or Jewelers of America for information/recommendation.

Find out what equipment the store uses

• They should at least have a microscope. Other equipment may include a color grading set and proportion scope

Ask about the store policies

• What is the store's return/refund policy (terms and conditions)?
  
• Does the store put what is sold in writing (quality of stones, setting)?
  
• Sale policy - is the sale price truly a sale price? Shop the "discounted" price per gram of gold (or, as with diamonds, price per carat) against others prices of similar quality.